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<channel>
	<title>American in Spain &#187; Mondragon</title>
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	<link>http://erikras.com</link>
	<description>Thoughts and photos from an American living in Spain.</description>
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		<title>Santo Tomás</title>
		<link>http://erikras.com/2007/12/26/santo-tomas/</link>
		<comments>http://erikras.com/2007/12/26/santo-tomas/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Dec 2007 06:41:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>erik</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mondragon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Partying]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[festival]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fiesta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[saint thomas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[santo tomas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2007/12/26/santo-tomas/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The main feast day for Saint Thomas in the Catholic church falls suspiciously close to the winter solstice, and is celebrated on December 21 with a huge fair in San Sebastian, Spain. In Mondragón, my wife&#8217;s home town, Santo Tomás is also an important day. But since San Sebastian is so close and so much [...]<h3>Related Photos</h3>

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]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a class="erpic" style="float:right;margin-left:5px;" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137704336/"><img alt="Basque Chap" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2413/2137704336_9b935fdf22_t.jpg" border="0" width="100" height="75"/></a>The main feast day for Saint Thomas in the Catholic church falls suspiciously close to <a href="http://erikras.com/2007/12/22/happy-winter-solstice-everybody/">the winter solstice</a>, and is celebrated on December 21 with a huge fair in San Sebastian, Spain.  In Mondragón, my wife&#8217;s home town, Santo Tomás is also an important day.  But since San Sebastian is so close and so much bigger, no one ever came to the fair in Mondragón, so they moved it to December 22 and the event exploded into a huge annual fair of crafts and livestock and dancing and drinking and general merriment.<br />
<span id="more-464"></span><br />
I don&#8217;t know much about Saint Thomas, but from the following two quotes from <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_the_Apostle">Wikipedia</a>, I think he&#8217;s now my favorite apostle.</p>
<blockquote><p>He also speaks up at The Last Supper in John 14:5. Jesus assures his disciples that they know where he is going, but Thomas protests that they don&#8217;t know at all.</p></blockquote>
<blockquote><p>In Thomas&#8217;s best known appearance in the New Testament, John 20:24-29, he doubts the resurrection of Jesus and demands to feel Jesus&#8217; wounds before being convinced.</p></blockquote>
<p>An apostle with critical thinking skills and an emphasis on evidence-based belief!??!  Go Tommy-boy!  It&#8217;s too bad he&#8217;s just a literary tool to silence future skeptics.</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137656480/"><img alt="Traditional Bread" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2335/2137656480_e6e7db87c0.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
These are <i>talos</i>, flat bread that meat, typically <acronym title="CHEEZ-tora, fresh fried chorizo sausage"><i>txistorra</i></acronym>, is wrapped in.  The lines were at least an hour long, so we didn&#8217;t have any.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136876777/"><img alt="Cider" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2348/2136876777_c80c024367.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
The <i>txistorra</i> is typically consumed with a glass of <acronym title="apple cider"><i>sidra</i></acronym>.
</p>
<p><!-- wp-revver: http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2006/10/24/revver-wordpress-plugin/ --><br />
<a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136879387/"><img alt="Trademark Rip-Offs" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2242/2136879387_14a76fc770.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
These knock-offs of trademarked personalities always crack me up.  Check out Pooh <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">Bear</span> Dog.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136883917/"><img alt="Crowded Streets" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2310/2136883917_22487a0f92.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
This is the path, looking towards the hotel, my wedding procession walked.  I said to Marga, &#8220;This festival would be a lot more fun with about 70% of the people.&#8221;  And she said, &#8220;Yes, I&#8217;m sure they feel the same way about you.&#8221;
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136888063/"><img alt="Porky" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2228/2136888063_15e400250f.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Some future <i>txistorra</i> napping in a crate.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136892415/"><img alt="Crowded" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2238/2136892415_6bc0039a83.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
The masses gather to see crafts booths under the horrible gray structure they built last year that looks like a gas station.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137676412/"><img alt="Baaa" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2393/2137676412_dc8ce06557.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Baaaaa-shful.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136898409/"><img alt="Little Goat" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2303/2136898409_6bd189fac5.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
An adorable little baby goat with his adorable little hornlets.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136900307/"><img alt="Boar Cheese?" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2385/2136900307_108c9010a2.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
A disturbing boar creature that will come get you while you sleep if you don&#8217;t buy cheese from this booth.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137685678/"><img alt="Puppets?" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2070/2137685678_d0c8223584.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Henson knock-offs.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137688390/"><img alt="Bread and bacon" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2022/2137688390_752109b6e7.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
A better view of the <i>talos</i> with some sweet, sweet bacon frying in the background.  I think the <i>talos</i> are corn-flour-based.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136910205/"><img alt="Oh my deer!" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2155/2136910205_79cb7afa22.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Doh!  A deer!  A female deer!
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137694828/"><img alt="Burrito" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2124/2137694828_cb1b758a01.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
This little week-old burrito got a lot of attention.</p>
<p>(here come the &#8220;is it okay to eat a week-old burrito?&#8221; googlers&#8230;)</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137697726/"><img alt="Suckling Burro" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2140/2137697726_2c56e631a2.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Mmmm!!!  Donkey milk!
</p>
<p>My sister-in-law, Belén, insisted that I get certain activities on video to show my mother, to whom she had proudly written an English email about the Santo Tomás festivities, particularly the dancing.  So here they are.</p>
<p><!-- wp-revver: http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2006/10/24/revver-wordpress-plugin/ --></p>
<p><!-- wp-revver: http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2006/10/24/revver-wordpress-plugin/ --></p>
<p>For lunch, we were invited to join Belén and about 25 friends to a meal in a restaurant.<a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137699882/"><img alt="Cider Pouring" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2062/2137699882_98ce4d714c.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
This is how <i>sidra</i> should be poured.  I love the captured droplets in this shot.</p>
<p>Sing along with me here:<br />
<blockquote>Cider Man, Cider Man,<br />
Fills a glass with cider, man!<br />
Pours it high, let&#8217;s it fall!<br />
Not a splash on the wall.<br />
Here comes Cider Man!!!</p></blockquote>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137702958/"><img alt="Sisters" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2239/2137702958_9b6d86ecc4.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Basque sisters.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2137704336/"><img alt="Basque Chap" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2413/2137704336_9b935fdf22.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Some handsome Basque gentleman that stopped by.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/2136924065/"><img alt="Belen dress" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2006/2136924065_6c78a5e2c1.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Belén was beaming all day because she&#8217;d received flowers and a digital camera from her boyfriend for their third anniversary.  Man, time flies!</p>
<p>We literally spent from 2pm to 2am between bars ordering drinks.  When our feet and livers couldn&#8217;t take anymore, we walked home briskly through the brisk night air.</p>
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<p>No related photos.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://erikras.com/2007/12/26/santo-tomas/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Maritxu</title>
		<link>http://erikras.com/2007/10/08/maritxu/</link>
		<comments>http://erikras.com/2007/10/08/maritxu/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2007 07:16:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>erik</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mondragon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Partying]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[church]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[maritxu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[party]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[priest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wedding]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2007/10/08/maritxu/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For years now, I&#8217;ve been told what a shame it was that I&#8217;ve been missing Maritxu (mar-EE-choo). Maritxu is a huge party in Mondragon held on the first Friday of October. Since moving to Spain 2.5 years ago, I&#8217;ve been out of the country for Maritxu in both 2005 (golfing in Scotland) and 2006 (New [...]<h3>Related Photos</h3>

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]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For years now, I&#8217;ve been told what a shame it was that I&#8217;ve been missing Maritxu (mar-EE-choo).  Maritxu is a huge party in Mondragon held on the first Friday of October.  Since moving to Spain 2.5 years ago, I&#8217;ve been out of the country for Maritxu in both 2005  (<a href="http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/scotland/2005/october/">golfing in Scotland</a>) and 2006 (<a href="http://erikras.com/2006/10/10/destination-big-apple/">New York City</a>).<br />
<span id="more-397"></span><br />
Maritxu is a very young festival, by European standards.  It began small in 1977 and has since grown to a size where people drive several hours to attend.  This gist is this: everyone dresses very elegantly, as if they were going to a wedding.  At a certain time in the evening, they gather in one corner of the town square and sing a song in Basque to a statue of the Virgin Mary on the corner of the central town church.  Then the virgin performs a &#8220;miracle&#8221;.  Marce, my mother-in-law, told me that once the public water fountain next to the virgin started giving wine.  Once, the virgin turned around in her little box and when she came back around, she was dressed like a bullfighter.  Another time, 1000 peseta (6€) bills rained from the balconies above.  Every year, it&#8217;s something different.  Then, in jubilation, the crowd sings, in Spanish, the wonderfully patriotic song, &#8220;Se quema Madrid&#8221; (see video below).  The rest of the night (and I mean until the sun comes up) is spent partying in the bars and street, with everyone dressed very elegantly.</p>
<p>Marga explained that <acronym title="-CHOO!">-txu</acronym> is an endearing diminutive suffix in Basque.  So &#8220;Maritxu&#8221; is sort of like &#8220;Little Mary&#8221;.</p>
<p>When we arrived in Mondragon, it was foggy and raining.  We got dressed and went down to see the singing.  Marce and I got there first, and she suggested that we get right up against the barrier to &#8220;see better&#8221;.  When Marga and Belén came a few minutes later, Belén told us that if we were that close, we&#8217;d almost certainly get hurt or burned by the fireworks.  So we backed off.  We ended up waiting there for 30-40 minutes while the street filled up with people.</p>
<p>I certainly wouldn&#8217;t call myself agoraphobic, but I really dislike being in a situation when I&#8217;m physically pressed up against other people.  My tolerance for this is particularly low when I&#8217;m stone cold sober, like I was on Friday night.  To deal with my discomfort, I decided to watch and evaluate how uncomfortable everyone else was.  No one likes being pushed.  It was particularly interesting to watch someone trying to move from one place to another, thereby pushing other people around to make a path.  From the person in motion, a compression wave of animosity would radiate out like the wake of a boat.  Moving person pushes person A, who gets upset, but before they can get too upset, person B, who person A bumped into, starts bitching at person A for pushing them, but then they&#8217;re interrupted by person C on the on their other side, etc. etc. etc.  Everyone was really as miserable as I.  In the front, there were some teenagers that thought it would be fun to annoy people and start what are called <em>avalanchas</em>, forcibly pushing people around just to annoy.  See video below:</p>
<p><!-- wp-revver: http://www.erik-rasmussen.com/blog/2006/10/24/revver-wordpress-plugin/ --></p>
<p>This was the environment I was in when my colleague, Alan, called my cell phone from work.  It&#8217;s usually some kind of emergency when such a call is made, but I was unable to hear anything he said, and unable to do anything to help him even if I could.  He described what he heard as, &#8220;It sounded like you were in a room of a thousand people who were told to scream as loud as they could.&#8221;  Pretty close.</p>
<p>Just before the event began, some Basque separatists used the opportunity to make a political statement.  It&#8217;s pretty annoying to have your presence somewhere be exploited to make it look like you support a cause that you don&#8217;t.  They knew there would be a crowd, so they took the opportunity to hold up posters saying &#8220;PSOE Facista&#8221;.  The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PSOE">PSOE</a> is the current governing party in Spain.  They&#8217;re the more liberal of the two main parties (the S and O stand for &#8220;socialist&#8221; and &#8220;workers&#8221;).  I suppose from the point of view of separatists, the government you&#8217;re trying to free yourself from would seem fascist.  Everything is political in the Basque country.  Apparently, earlier that day, there was a demonstration in Mondragon with police firing rubber bullets at the protesters.  Glad we missed that.</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512101133/"><img alt="CIMG4795" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2390/1512101133_34b61b8231.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Belén told me that the sign reads, &#8220;We aren&#8217;t all here.&#8221;  The photos are often seen around Mondragon.  They are the ETA terrorists that are in prison for, well, terrorism.  The shape is that of the Basque Country.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512112531/"><img alt="CIMG4797" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2136/1512112531_90ea142c00.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
I remember when I first came to Mondragon.  One of my first thoughts when in a packed bar looking around at people was, &#8220;So <em>this</em> is why the Spaniards I knew in Denmark were so amazed by all the &#8216;exotic&#8217; blond women!&#8221;
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512986566/"><img alt="CIMG4800" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2095/1512986566_6b3dbb4f68.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Yep, not much difference between 21st century Spain and Nazi Germany.  Dumbasses.
</p>
<p>Finally, the event began.  Marga and Belén assured me that normally the crowd sings better and more in sync with each other.  This year, the &#8220;miracle&#8221; was extremely lame.  They threw little postcard-sized pieces of construction paper, each with one of &#8220;the seven wonders of Mondragon&#8221;, a list which included a bridge and a round-a-bout.  After singing the regular song, you&#8217;ll hear them singing:</p>
<blockquote><p>Madrid se quema, se quema Madrid,<br />
Madrid se quema, se quema Madrid,<br />
Madrid se quema, se quema Madrid,<br />
Se quema, se quema Madrid</p></blockquote>
<p>&#8220;Se quema&#8221; means &#8220;burns&#8221;.  The rest you can figure out.  Marga and family insist that the song is lighthearted and they don&#8217;t really mean for Madrid to burn, but I think it&#8217;s a little inappropriate.  Even if it&#8217;s supposedly not taken literally, the separatist cause is still being supported.</p>
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<p>After escaping the mob, Marga and I had to drive to the wedding restaurant to drop off a paper with information about table seating.  When we returned, we found Belén and her friends.  They had invited us to go up into the mountains with them to an old stone house that one of their families owns and have dinner.  This is a fairly common practice.  The food had been bought at a caterer and left in the house.  When we got there, we warmed it up and had dinner.  At 2:30 AM we returned to Mondragon and Marga and I decided to call it a night, since we had lots of wedding-based errands to run in the morning.  Belén headed out for more.</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512164163/"><img alt="CIMG4805" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/213/1512164163_7d98bd840a.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Belén&#8217;s friends cleaning up after dinner.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512152829/"><img alt="CIMG4804" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2308/1512152829_153442f397.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Belén pretending to study at an old student&#8217;s desk in the old house.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1513001498/"><img alt="CIMG4803" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2099/1513001498_71e59c4479.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
I loved this old radio.  If you look closely, there are parts of the dial for various cities.</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512178901/"><img alt="CIMG4806" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2103/1512178901_c15a2e909a.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Part of the Maritxu experience is buying a piece of paper to wear around your neck that says &#8220;Maritxu 2007&#8243;.  I&#8217;ve seen these lying around Marga&#8217;s folks house for years.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512188551/"><img alt="CIMG4810" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2157/1512188551_a8b30d5ff2.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
And, as far as you know, it&#8217;s a custom to untuck your shirt on one side.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512196033/"><img alt="CIMG4811" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2397/1512196033_412610735c.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Marga and Belén, back at Grandpa and Belén&#8217;s house.  I&#8217;ve seen several years&#8217; worth of Maritxu photos posed in this doorway.
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1512202773/"><img alt="CIMG4812" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2419/1512202773_74e00ec3f5.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
Ever since learning the word for it, Belén has stopped calling me by name and now calls me &#8220;brother-in-law&#8221; in English.  It&#8217;s cute for now.
</p>
<p>In the end, I wasn&#8217;t very impressed with this Maritxu festival, particularly after the years of build-up it received.  According to Belén and Marga, we didn&#8217;t really &#8220;do it right&#8221;.  You&#8217;re supposed to go out for drinks early, not stand so close to the virgin, and party harder.</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1513067330/"><img alt="CIMG4819" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2333/1513067330_304ee0f514.jpg" border="0" width="375" height="500"/></a>
<p class="caption">
This dwarf lemon tree was at the flower shop where we&#8217;re buying the wedding flowers.  Pretty crazy, huh?
</p>
<p><a class="erpic" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/erikrasmussen/1513080470/"><img alt="CIMG4820" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/1513080470_217f445cf7.jpg" border="0" width="500" height="375"/></a>
<p class="caption">
These string instruments made from leaves were in a nearby shop window.
</p>
<p>The next morning we went to talk to the priest that will marry us.  We got to the church at 11:00.  We pushed on the door and walked inside.  It was completely empty.  There&#8217;s something a little creepy about being in a space that large all alone.  We went back to the street and called the priest.</p>
<blockquote><p>Marga: Sir, my name is Marga, we had agreed to meet at the church this morning.<br />
Priest: Oh, right.  I forgot all about that.<br />
Marga: We&#8217;re here now.  When should we come back?<br />
Priest: How about 12:30?  Is 12:30 okay with you?<br />
Marga [very deferentially]: Whenever is best for you, sir.<br />
Priest: Okay, let&#8217;s make it 1:00.</p></blockquote>
<p>From what I can tell from meeting the ones in Colindres and Mondragon, the priests in Spain have such a high level of job security that they have become incredibly lazy (isn&#8217;t that a deadly sin?).  This guy couldn&#8217;t care less that I wasn&#8217;t Spanish or Catholic.  Hey, man, as long as you&#8217;ve got the paperwork done, I don&#8217;t care who you are.  He warned us that we&#8217;d better not be scamming him, like some Nigerians tried to do last year.  It&#8217;s always the Nigerians, isn&#8217;t it?  Apparently they have a marriage crime ring where you can rent a woman to come be your bride at a wedding to help falsify immigration papers.  He rambled on about that for a while.  In the end, the most important rules to him were those that, if not followed, would cause him extra time or work: 1) Be punctual.  We have to be walking down the aisle at 13:00 sharp. 2) Tell people not to throw rice until you&#8217;re way out into the plaza, so that he doesn&#8217;t have to clean rice up from church property.</p>
<p>I have about 9 errands to do today.  Two of them include getting my eyebrows and the car waxed.</p>
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